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"It's all about the crust"

  • Writer: Liz Marin
    Liz Marin
  • Jul 25, 2024
  • 6 min read

Updated: Jul 30, 2024

I happen to live in an area where you cannot find a good pizza. Growing up on Long Island,

a great pizza was literally 5 minutes away. The name of the place was Sammy's Inferno and Sammy knew how to make a pizza. His place was legendary and everyone that wanted a fabulous pizza went there. We would order it to go, always asking for extra garlic and extra cheese. Probably a million calories a slice but we were kids, and in those days, I don't think the word calorie even existed. Anyway, the large pizza was really large, like 18 inches and it had on it what a pizza should have. Fresh tomato-based sauce and fresh mozzarella cheese, the kind that makes violin strings when you pull a piece apart. And also, in our case, lots of fresh minced garlic. But the one thing that set it apart from all other pizzas in the area was the crust. Thin, crisp and firm, usually with a slight char on the bottom from Sammy's super-hot oven. It was slightly chewy, and flexible enough to fold in half for perfect eating, which is the only way a New Yorker eats a pizza. His pizza was perfection, the sauce, the cheese, and of course the crust! I bet you're wishing you could drive over to Sammys' right now!


Well, after leaving NY I landed In Virginia where I ordered a pizza and picked it up in a white wax bag. I kid you not. From there I moved to California and the search for a Sammy's Inferno type pizza began but no luck, even in San Francisco's little Italy. Some came close but never matched Sammys'. When I moved to Colorado, I continued the search and after 24 years I finally gave up.


I wanted a real NY pizza. Just like the one Sammy made. And that's when I came to the conclusion that the only way to have one was to make my own. I had a pizza stone, and it was "ok" which meant it wasn't doing the job. So, I needed to find something better, and I did. While searching online, I found the answer to my prayers. Something that heated up so hot that it turned my basic G.E. oven into Sammy's Inferno. What is it? It's called a pizza steel!


Here's how it works. You heat it up for one hour at 450 degrees. The dimensions are 16 x 14.25 by 0.25 thick so it fits perfectly in the oven. And because its steel, it has a conductivity capacity that turns your 450 degrees in 1000F degree oven, or an inferno! The crusts are crisp, blistering and delicious! And they bake super-fast! In other words, this

steel acts like a 1000F wood-fired oven at half the temperature! And the result?

Although no one could make it exactly like Sammy, this comes as close as you can get!


Now I was on the hunt for the perfect dough for that perfect crust, and after several tries, I found it! It's very easy to make, takes literally no time, the result is, well, try it and you tell me. I think it's just perfection!


Pizza Dough (courtesy of Bobby Flay)

(Yields 2 14" crusts)


Materials needed


Ingredients

3 1/2 to 4 cups bread flour, plus more for rolling it out (I use the full 4 cups)

1 teaspoon of sugar

1 envelop of instant dry yeast

2 teaspoons of kosher salt

1 1/2 cups of water, 110 degrees F.

2 tablespoons of olive oil plus 2 teaspoons


Directions

  1. Combine the bread flour, sugar, yeast and kosher salt in the bowl of a standard mixer and combine (use your dough hook attachment). While the mixer is running, add the water and 2 tablespoons of the oil and beat until the dough forms into a ball. If the dough is sticky, add additional flour, 1 tablespoon at a time, until the dough comes together in a solid ball. If the dough is too dry, add additional water, 1 tablespoon at a time. Scrape the dough onto a lightly floured surface and gently knead into a smooth, firm ball.

  2. Grease a large bowl with the remaining 2 teaspoons olive oil, add the dough (turn the dough in the bowl to coat it), cover the bowl with plastic wrap and put it in a warm area to let it double in size, about 1 hour. (If are doing this earlier in the day, divide the dough into two equal round balls after it has risen, flatten to a thick disc and put each piece into a zip lock bag and then into the fridge. This is called a cold rise and I think this extra rise develops an additional flavor in the dough. It's not necessary but since I usually make the dough in the morning, the extra rising time works. Also, if you are not using both pieces of dough, you can freeze one with no problem. I just get as much air out of the zip lock bag and toss in the freezer. Also, if you made the dough and don't want to use it immediately, you can store it in the fridge for a couple of days)

  3. Now it's time to roll out the dough. (If it's been refrigerated, take it out and let rest so that it comes to room temperature.) Take the flattened disc and put onto a lightly floured surface. (If you have not already divided the dough because you skipped the cold rise, do so now). Cover each piece with a clean kitchen towel or plastic wrap and let them rest for 10 minutes. Liz's Note

Using bread flour will give you a much crisper crust. If you can't find bread flour, you can substitute it with all-purpose flour which will give you a chewier crust.



Now it's time to make the pizza! The best way to flatten the dough is with a rolling pin. Unless you are an experienced pizza maker, the "tossing it up in the air" method does not work. So, roll it out and leave a little "lip" around the edge


Take your pizza peel and sprinkle with cornmeal. I put a generous amount of cornmeal on the paddle because I want the pizza to slide off easily onto the steel which has been heating up in the oven for an hour at 450. (You have placed the steel in the upper two thirds of the oven before warming it up). Under no circumstances do you touch the steel. No potholder will protect you!


Take your rolled out pizza dough and place on the peel. Here's where you put your decorating talents to work! My pizza is very traditional. First, I cover the dough with marinara sauce, then the mozzarella cheese (use fresh if you want it like Sammy's), sprinkle with fresh minced garlic and drizzle with a little olive oil.


Now it's time to bake. Take your pizza peel that has the raw pizza on it and starting towards the back of the steel "shimmy" in onto the steel. The cornmeal should let it slide easily off. Never touch the steel, not with a potholder or anything. The dough should slide off easily if you have sprinkled it with enough cornmeal.


Let bake for approximately 10 minutes or until done. Watch it so it does not burn. Then, use your peel to remove. Carefully slide it under the pizza and place on your counter. I have a large cutting board that I place the pizza on, and I would suggest that.

Let it rest a couple of minutes. Then use your rocker pizza cutter to cut and then Manga!


If you are making this for guests, be prepared to have them blown away!


So, no more searching for me. I can now make my own version of Sammy's Inferno Pizza. And if I close my eyes, I can picture myself eating one just like he made. It's that good!


Note: Clean your steel after it is completely cooled. I use these stone cleaning blocks to clean any residue on the steel and they work like magic. I store the pizza steel in the very bottom of the over. It's said that placing it there helps regulate your oven temperature. I store it there because it's the only place I can put i


This steel is an investment just like any fine piece of cook ware. But after spending so much on awful pizzas, this paid for itself! In fact, I'm thinking of getting a second one as I've done pizza parties and a second would really come in handy, even when I have my family over!



(Any links in this post are affiliate links which I may be given a small compensation for if they are purchased through the link)






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